Chemises and embroidery

[CWLady]

Well ladies,
I bought Past Pattern's Chemises, and was a little intimidated by the embroidery on Chemise A. Thing is, I don't know how to embroider. So, the only other option is Chemise B, which I'm not entirely thrilled with. (Maybe it'll look better once it's sewn.) However, it involves eyelette, and I don't want to buy trim that's not correct to the period. Where do you recommend I go?
However, it looks like to be correct, I'll have to learn embroidery on the drawers. (Also with Past Patterns.) Perhaps I can bring them to my first "real" event and learn? To help with modesty in the meantime, I'll make the petticoat. (Don't want to get in trouble here by stating names, but it's hopefully with AGSAS in Lynchburg.)
Rebecca Smith

[cwbelle]

Re: Chemises and embroidery

I would highly recomend visiting Mrs. Elisabeth Clark's website, and her instructions on drafting a chemise. I found the instructions wonderful and very easy to follow.
Sincerely,
Lisa-Marie

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Chemises and embroidery

No one will yell at you for hooking up with AGSAS, that's for sure! :)

The drawers and chemise can both be made without extra embellishment. If you do wish to learn whitework (and I love it, so I'll try not to be toooo zealous about encouraging it), I'd suggest starting with something small and "disposable" like a handkerchief, both for the instant-gratification factor, and for the "don't spend four years on it" factor.

As for buying whitework trims, you're wise to steer clear of eyelet trimming. The stuff available in most chain stores is abyssmal compared to the real thing. Imported Swiss embroidered edgings come closer to the quality of mid-century machine-embroidered trims, but aren't all that hot when laid side by side. This is one situation where "best possible" is okay, but not the epitome of awesome.

You can find imported Swiss embroidered edgings from most heirloom sewing suppliers; two I like on-line are http://www.baltazor.com and http://www.marthapullen.com With Martha Pullen, avoid the "Victorian Embroideries" and go for the good Swiss ones--the "Victorians" have a lesser stitch quality. It still beats the pants off of Joann's poly-cotton eyelet, but it's not a good approximation of machined trims mid-century--or at least, not as good as the true Swiss stuff.

The other thing to consider is: how fancy are you wanting to be? Using Swiss trims on a muslin chemise is like putting dandelions in a Limoges vase... the fabric weights and weaves are so disparate, they don't look right. And, fine batiste probably isn't your first choice, budget wise, for chemises.

Therefore, consider making a plain chemise, and drawers ornamented with perhaps some tucks around the hem, and get a few sets "under your belt", then get along with the other clothing... there's a lot of money to spend, and only so many garments to spend it on. :)

If you're close geographically, some of the AGSAS members probably have the pattern instructions Lisa-Marie mentions already printed out.

And, yes, many times there will be folks at an event who will be able to teach you basic whitework. Again, best to learn on a hankie--you don't really want to sit around with your chemise hanging out everywhere. And, not every event will involve a scenario where sitting and stitching is going to be possible, so factor that in, as well.

There are also conferences and workshops done all over the country... I know there have been whitework workshops at the Citizen's of the 1860s Conference in Harrisburg, I believe Carolann Schmitt does them in Gettysburg, I teach, I think Vivian Murphy may, Carol Dickenson, at least one lady up in New England.... quite a few, really. It's a rather fun hobby.

[CWLady]

Re: Chemises and embroidery

Okay... so when I make the chemise, I can finish the yoke and sleeves without adding eyelette? Just hem them?
I'm not looking for fancy at this point, just a utiltarian chemise to wear. Thanks for the tip about the hankie.
With the drawers, I'll hem the legs as usual- no embellishment for the first pair.
I wish Past Patterns gave me that option- how to do it without trim.
The garments will be made of white muslin.
Now, how can I adapt PP's overpetticoat pattern to be an UNDERpetticoat as well?
Thanks again!
Rebecca Smith

[KathyBradford]

Re: Chemises and embroidery

Hi, Rebecca,

Treat yourself to a long, leisurely time at Elizabeth's website. Her chemise pattern is my very favorite, and it makes up beautifully. The neckline is much more simple than Past Patterns, and you can draft a pattern from her directions to fit yourself perfectly. It's easy to adjust her chemise pattern several inches for a more slender fit. She explains things well and has a forum for sewing questions through her Sewing Academy.

Good advice with a sense of humor.

http://www.ElizabethStewartClark.com

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Chemises and embroidery

Petticoats are something you really don't need a pattern for, in my opinion. For most of the era, they are simply breadths of fabric, hemmed, and set into or onto a waistband (depending on whether it's gathered or gauged).

For a very simple petticoat under skirt supports, take three breadths of 36" fabric, seam them together along the selvedges (leaving one seam open about 8-10" for a placket), turn up a wide-ish hem (for good weight and a bit of body at the hem), and work two rows of gathering stitches by hand at the waist edge--these lay much more neatly than machine gathering, and are a simple running stitch, each row entering and exiting the fabric at even intervals. Add a fitted waistband (the instructions in the drawers article on the site in Kathy's post can be used), and off you go!

Petticoats worn next to the body are often rather shorter than the outer skirts--mid-calf-ish. This allows for great mobility in the narrower skirt, and prevents tripping to a large extent.

When figuring the length of each skirt piece, you measure from waist to desired hem, add an allowance for the hem being turned (1/2" plus however deep you want the hem to be), and an allowance for attaching the waist (1/2" is good here as a seam allowance). (Expanded basic information on measuring and fitting skirts can be found in the Gauging article at the same site.) When setting the hem, fold and press 1/2" to the wrong side, then fold up your hem depth and press; secure along the fold to finish the hem.

[CWLady]

Re: Chemises and embroidery

Ladies,
The first time I checked Elizabeth's chemise website, the link was down, but the other day I took a look. It's very close to what I wore in the 18th Century, except the sleeves are shorter and there's no drawstring for a neckline. I just saved myself loads of time! Thank God.
Rebecca Smith