Top Hats

[Sackcoat]

Usually do a Federal western impression but will be doing my first civilian impression, “upper class”, to include a black frock or paletot. A top hat seems appropriate for this impression.

Starting research on common clothing in the 1860s, I have found the common material for top hats was hatters plush (plush silk)

Given the remaining “Authentic minded” hat vendors cannot get this material, (no longer made), are surviving vintage top hats of later decades acceptable with modifications? For example, I have found plush silk top hats from say the 1880s are not that rare, many are in excellent shape, and the price, even for one in great condition, can range around $200.

The wide grosgrain ribbon can easily be changed out to match ribbons of the 1860 era which look much narrower per photos I have viewed. Obviously the crown height cannot be changed although some top hats of later eras I have found can range as high as 6 to 6 1/4 inches high. (My understanding is crown heights started to become lower after the 1850s although “stovepipe” hats still dominated)

“Thoughts and feedback would be appreciated”

Joe

[Michael Semann]

Re: Top Hats

Although top hats by the mid 1860's were indeed shorter than their 1850's brethren, they were still taller and with a more pronounced bell flair at the top than those that would follow C. the 1870's and 1880's. The brim was also relatively flat compared to styles that would follow In point of fact, the crown height and general shape would change little from the 1880's until today

As such, the more modern style that you would like to utilize look quite out of place in an Antebellum and Civil War era persona. Photos bear out that the taller 1850's patterns were still very much in evidence regarding usage during the war too.

It's a pity that silk plush all but vanished from production in France in the 1980's (date depends on who you ask). The few yards that are discovered inevitably go towards the restoration of extant top hats, at considerable cost. There really isn't a suitable substitute for it either.

[Sackcoat]

Re: Top Hats

In my research I found the last known mill that made hatters plush, (Lyons France), shut down in 1970. “Apparently the two brothers who owned the mill had a falling out and called it quits”

Came across some information that a mill in France was producing again but could find no further information or details so may have been internet rumor.

Joe

[CompanyWag]

Re: Top Hats

Some hatters are resorting to a type of felt called melusine, particularly in Britain. It is a long-haired felt that can be brushed and polished to a nice shine reminiscent of silk plush, but not a perfect substitute. The new top hats made by Christys for Ascot & etc. now use melusine and though the curved brim can be steam-flattened, the tallest crowns are still somewhat lower and straighter than needed for our period. There are also custom hatters to be found working in melusine, some that specialize in historic styles, but evidently it is hard to get felts large enough for hats reaching 1850s heights particularly for large melon heads like myself. Additionally, custom blocks to get the slight flaired shape are expensive as they need to have keyways to collapse the block inside the hat to release it after it is formed. If your hat size is small, you might be more lucky. I did see photos of melusine top hats made for the Brunel Museum that didn't look too bad.

[Michael Semann]

Re: Top Hats

https://www.christys-hats.com/mens-hats/shop-by-style/top-hats/fur-taller-top-hat

The nap does indeed comb much like silk plush. However as you observed, the available blanks do not facilitate the requisite height crown for our purposes:

https://www.thetrimmingcompany.com/product/millinery-materials/fur-felt-hoods/hf003-melusine-cone/