Hoop question

[CWLady]

I recently bought a hoop kit from Kay Gnagey, but it's 108" in circumference. The standards for Burkittsville call for "modest cage crinolines" and prohibit "large hoops". I'm afraid (but not sure if) my hoop falls in the latter category. I haven't constructed it yet, so if it is going to be too wide finished, how can I pare it down so that it's smaller? Also, what kind of tape do you ladies recommend to hold the hoops?
Thanks
Rebecca Smith

[Emmanuel Dabney]

Re: Hoop question

Rebecca,

108" circumference is not that much unless you're like the size of a 5 year old, then there would be a problem. ;-) Others I'm sure will have commentary to say about the tapes and someone can pipe up with that math equation to figure out if something it too much or too little.

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Hoop question

For some perspective, I'm 5'6", quite stout, and 108" is a very workable circumference. For most women' over 5'3", it's not considered large, but rather, moderate. "Large" is 130-160"... they're trying to get a realistic look, rather than the Lampshade Look so popular in mainstream wear.

108" is a nice size compared to originals, and works well for everyday, as well as for "big fashion"--you just toss a starched, flounced petticoat over the top of the moderate hoop, and you can get a "big" look without changing the understructure one whit.

[CWLady]

Re: Hoop question

[QUOTE=ElizabethClark]For some perspective, I'm 5'6", quite stout, and 108" is a very workable circumference.
I'm 5'5" with medium build. Not skinny, not fat. Thanks for the reassurance!
However, the overpetticoat by Past Patterns looks like it won't fit. I haven't started sewing yet. The directions tell me that it'll fit over a "modest" hoop of 90 inches and the finished length is 33 inches, which means that even if my hoop were that thin, it'd still be too short because the length from my waist to ankle is 37inches. Have any of you run into that problem? How do you guys make an overpetticoat (sans embroidery... I'm working on it!)? Is it period to add a plain flounce on the hem?

Thanks!
Rebecca Smith

[Millie Fillmore]

Re: Hoop question

Rebecca,

I very, VERY highly recommend the instructional books by Mrs. Clark ("Skirting the Issue" and "The Dressmaker's Guide to Fit & Fashion"). Both are extremely complete and easy to understand. You can modify the Past Patterns underskirt to fit your cage, but I would also recommend both of these books. In them, you will find answers to all of your questions. And if you DO happen to be confused, you know where she hangs out! :wink_smil

A simple underskirt is VERY easy to construct. You don't even need a pattern. You will just need to bond with your calculator for a few minutes. All you have to do is sew a piece of fabric into a tube and gather or gauge it onto a waistband.

The original underskirts that I remember seeing a few years ago:

One had 19 rows (!) of hand-stitched tucks evenly distributed on the bottom 1/2 of the skirt. Length was 38-1/2" from the bottom of the waistband, and the circumference was 146".

The other one had no tucks, but still had a ton of handwork in the edging on the hem (edging was made of white cotton tape folded & hand-sewn in a vandyke pattern). Length was 38", circumference 142".

Good luck!

Katie Guslick

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Hoop question

It sounds like you might want to make up the hoop first, then take a few measurements.

Most cages will stop around mid-calf--abou 8-10" from the floor on many women. (This accounts for the "drop off" you'll see in period images, and makes it much easier to walk, too.)

Once you have your skirt support made, it's simple work to measure from waist to your desired hem, over the support. 33" may be a tad short for what you need... but, never fear, you can lengthen it in several ways! (What is the circumference of the petticoat, as the pattern directs? If it is more than 120", you're fine width-wise.)

Some options for lengthening:

If you already have a pretty hem, tucks or other work added to the bottoms of the petticoat, lengthen it by adding to the upper edge. The join will never be seen, and you can add length as needed from the old "waist" edge up to your needed waist length.

If you're not to the "set hem" part, you can cut additional panels to lengthen the overall petticoat from the bottom, too.

Flouncing can be used, of course, but setting the extra panels to the bottom of the unhemmed petticoat, flat, also works. Flouncing really works best when there's an underlayer to it, so the flouncing "flounces" out. :)

The first step, though, is to finish up the skirt support, and measure from there, so you have an idea of how much is really needed to finish it off at a good length--no sense doing more work that you must! :)

[Rother]

Re: Hoop question

I recently bought a hoop kit from Kay Gnagey, but it's 108" in circumference. The standards for Burkittsville call for "modest cage crinolines" and prohibit "large hoops". I'm afraid (but not sure if) my hoop falls in the latter category. I haven't constructed it yet, so if it is going to be too wide finished, how can I pare it down so that it's smaller? Also, what kind of tape do you ladies recommend to hold the hoops?
Thanks
Rebecca Smith

I just purchased the same kit from Kay. The kit comes with all the hardware (tapes) needed to make the cage, except material for the waistband. It wasn't that difficult to construct either.

Renee Roth

[Spinster]

Re: Hoop question

The hoop your kit produces is not too large to meet standards, and will be appropriate at any event, unless the event standard is "corded petticoats only".

The kit includes plenty of tape to do the job. While the top end of the tapes are enclosed in the waistband, the bottom ends are left somewhat free after the bottom hoop is attached. While the directions do not say so, it is vital that you finish the tape ends in some manner, by sewing under the raw edge or dipping them in glue. Otherwise this tape is subject to ravel.

The kit does not include material for the waistband. We've one with a band made of sheeting weight material, and another with a band of lightweight canvas duck. I like the duck better, but your mileage may vary.

For a more detailed review of the process of making this cage kit:

http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1021

Do make yourself some sort of bag with a hang strap for this hoop. This will protect it during travel, and keep other items in the vehicle from snaging on the hoops. The buckram covering does not react well to dampness, and you will need to hang it up at night rather than just proping it against a tent wall. High humidity sometimes affects the buckram as well, and I've reglued sections of the covering.

And a year later, and approximately 20 weekends wearing it, I'm still just thrilled to death with this cage---and I was never fond of hoops before.....

[CWLady]

Re: Hoop question

Renee says "I just purchased the same kit from Kay. The kit comes with all the hardware (tapes) needed to make the cage, except material for the waistband. It wasn't that difficult to construct either"

According to the directions, you need 9 yards of tape. I started cutting the lengths needed and ran out of tape. It says to cut 7 tapes, each 38 inches long and 2 tapes that are 30 inches long. I could only get 5 38 inch tapes.
Rebecca Smith

[Spinster]

Re: Hoop question

According to the directions, you need 9 yards of tape. I could only get 5 38 inch tapes.
Rebecca Smith

Sounds like your kit is a bit short--we had the same problem on the brads (pretty easy to miscount when you are sending enough for a dozen hoops). On the other hand, there was a gracious plenty of hooping in the box. Call Mrs. G, she'll make it good.

[Rother]

Re: Hoop question

Renee says "I just purchased the same kit from Kay. The kit comes with all the hardware (tapes) needed to make the cage, except material for the waistband. It wasn't that difficult to construct either"

According to the directions, you need 9 yards of tape. I started cutting the lengths needed and ran out of tape. It says to cut 7 tapes, each 38 inches long and 2 tapes that are 30 inches long. I could only get 5 38 inch tapes.
Rebecca Smith

I must have received the extra amount that you are missing! I had enough to increase the recommended length for taller ladies (I'm 6'0), plus I had approx. 6 inches left over.

Renee Roth