Linen summer civilian vest

[David Swarens]

Re: Linen summer civilian vest

I just looked at the dates of the post, and am no longer "surprised," but still recommend a look at the Past Patterns vest!

Yours,
David Swarens

[rebjeb04]

Re: Linen summer civilian vest

Hello All,

I was thinking of using the new Past Pattern Shawl waistcoat. I was going to make it from a off-white cream colored silk/cotton blend of a woven stripe pattern and line it with a cream silk satin for dress wear. Would such a vest need the removable padding or padding at all? Should I use a white polished cotton and back or stay with the silk satin?

Thanks, and great thread!

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Linen summer civilian vest

Some amount of padding gives a nice smooth look in the chest (so I'd use 'em), but it might not be removable for the style/textiles you're thinking of using.

[rebjeb04]

Re: Linen summer civilian vest

Thanks Elizabeth,

Going to all those conferences and stuff you must have seen a ton of these! One last thing should I use the silk satin for the backing as well as the interior of the waistcoat?

Thanks Brian for the great pictures.

Erik,

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Linen summer civilian vest

Erik -

I have 20+ original c.1855-1865 vests in my collection and have examined perhaps 70+ more. I can't recall seeing a single one from this period with a silk or silk satin lining. The linings have varied from plain cotton to glazed cotton to cotton twill - usually white or off-white in color - but no silk. I'd be interested in knowing of any original mid-19thc. vests with a silk lining.

I've personally not examined any original American vests from this period that had a silk back. They too have been made from a cotton of some sort - frqeuently glazed. We had a similar discussion on another forum and someone posted some pre-war English references for a vests with a silk back, but those are the only references I've found to date. Based on my information to date, it appears a silk back would be rather unusual for this era.

With the exception of some of the lightweight summer vests, the majority of the vests I've examined have some form of padding in the chest. The amount varies with the fit and the wearer. The silk vests in my collection do not have removable padding.

Regards,

[rebjeb04]

Re: Linen summer civilian vest

Hey Carolann,

Thanks for the info! Glad I have not yet purchased that silk satin!!! I think Chas. Childs has some of the polished cotton, which would probably make a good lining and back, etc. Could you post a few images of one of the padded vests? I think it would add great interest to this thread aside from being very helpful for myself.

I will post an image of Col. Amedee Bringier of Louisiana wearing a nice white silk? vest. It is a pre-war painting ca. 1845-1850. I would like to create the image of this vest as much as possible.

Thanks again,

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Linen summer civilian vest

Folks like Carolann Schmitt are my mentors when it comes to men's things... Carolann has handled a LOT more original vests than I have ever seen, so her summaries are far more accurate than mine as to the backing fabrics, etc. I was simply going on what I've picked up as common construction techniques for wool/silk vests as opposed to the light linen summer vests. :)

[MLovejoy]

Re: Linen summer civilian vest

I've been planning on working on a civilian style vest this winter, and I was hoping to use a nice brocade for the facing. I have found a few retailers through the civilian approved vendors who have posted links to manufacturers/retailers with limited results. Is there anyone out there who might know who or where I would be able to find some variety in style of brocades? I would like very much to have paisley pattern to work with.