1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

[Kiev Thomason]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

Kiev,

I'm curious--the sheer dress pattern by the same maker had a 30 page booklet that was a fine step by step guide to basic period sewing for women. It was almost 'period dressmaking for dummies' and we were very pleased with the results, especially since we were scaling up one of their 'fat girl' patterns for an even more portly lass. (I'm pleased to report that lass has since lost a whole person and the dress itself has made 3 very large pinner aprons, one child's dress, and a whole bunch of poke sacks)

Is the instruction booklet for the men's overcoat similarly detailed in period sewing and fitting techiniques for men's outer wear?

Hey Mrs.Lawson! Yes it is very easy to follow and is like coat making for first time nonsewing men dummies...like myself :D i found it really well written and documented.

[Spinster]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

Both Nick and Kiev have illustrated what I found on the women's dress from this pattern company---the documentation alone was worth the price of the pattern.

So, while I'm not looking to make an overcoat, likely I'll get the pattern just to get that little sprial bound book that come with it. We've about worn ours out on the dressmaking side, even though we only really made the dress one time.

[pipthelimey]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

All,
I own one of these coats, made by Nate Petersburg. Back when the pattern came out, I wanted one, (but am posessed of no sewing skills) so I purchased the pattern, material, etc, and sent it all to Nate. I left the pattern with Nate, so if you can convince him to make you one, you won't have to purchase the pattern. I used a darker brown jean, and lined it with red wool flannel from B Black and Son's. The buttons are Goodyear rubber. It's quite warm, and that's without the cape. It's large enough to wear comfortably over a uniform, and very warm to sleep in. I highly reccomend it.

Andrew Jerram

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

For those who have made a coat from this pattern:
Do you know how many yards of jeans are required? I will have the opportunity to do some fabric shopping on the way to Perryville.

Thanks!

[pipthelimey]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

I believe it was 7.

Andrew Jerram

[Matthew Semple]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

I had the honor & pleasure of surveying this artifact about a week ago, and would like to add a couple of comments/notes to what has already been posted. The outer garment (or "shell") is constructed of a very interesting heavyweight jean cloth; it is very coarsely woven with many slubs, and IMHO is hand-loomed. It bears no resemblance to any commercial jean cloth being offered by various sources today...The cotton warp threads are not visible at all on the outside of the garment (but were clearly visible in a small frayed spot near one of the buttons and through a small tear in the lining ;-) ). The color is now a warm tan, which of course could be the result of the color shift common to various natural dyestuffs/mordants. The buttons that lie under the collar for the attachment of the cape are black china (rather thick & semi-conical in shape), while those used to close the coat are slighlty convex and either gutta percha or hard rubber (tough to determine).

Nick,

Thanks. Great description. What material and color is the lining?

[neocelt]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

Matthew,

The lining in the body and sleeves of the coat is a medium-weight, coarsely-woven cotton domestic in a tabby weave. I didn't get the thread count (sorry!)--perhaps another reader can contribute this data (it's not noted in the booklet accompanying the pattern). It appears to be a light, dirty brown color now, but I suspect it was natural (undyed) color in its original state.

Cheers,

[JordanRicketts]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

All,

Found a link that has some video of this overcoat...

http://www.wabe.org/history/smith_overcoat.html

Jordan Ricketts

[Matthew Semple]

Re: 1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

All,

Found a link that has some video of this overcoat...

http://www.wabe.org/history/smith_overcoat.html

Jordan Ricketts

Would anyone know if this video is still available from another source? The website link that Mr. Ricketts posted seems to not have the video anymore.