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  • #1

    Clothing Question

    I have a question I am sure I will find an answer to on in this forum. What types of material would frocks, tailcoats, trousers, and waistcoats be constructed from in the Fall, Winter, and early Spring between 1850-1860? What about the stitching associated with these garments? Handstiched buttonholes, etc.? I figued that the construction material would primarily be wool, but I have not inspected any original civilian garments as of yet. I am assuming that lighter material, such as linen might be used for summer wear. Thank you all for the imput on this subject.

    Chris
    [FONT="Book Antiqua"][B]Christopher P. Young[/B]
    [/FONT] [URL="http://bullyforbragg.blogspot.com"]Army of Tennessee[/URL]
    [URL="http://www.antebellumpoliticing.blogspot.com/"]Our Federal Union, It Must Be Preserved[/URL]
    [FONT="Palatino Linotype"]"Of all the properties which belong to honorable men, not one is so highly prized as that of character." Secretary of State Henry Clay, July 27,1827[/FONT]
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: Clothing Question

    Chris,

    Your question is a bit like the famous grad school exam "define the universe and give two examples" . Lets narrow this down a bit more into what exactly you wish to accomplish and to what purpose you are going to use it.

    What class of man do you wish to know about, and from what region of the country?

    Your website reflects a great deal of interest in this pre-war time period. Since you have not had the opportunity to examine originals, one of the best collections around may be within your reach from Jacksonville. Call over to Kennesaw National Military Park and ask when the Wightsmans will be exhibiting their collection again. This fine couple has an excellent collection of mid-century civilian clothing, currency, jewelry, and images and are most kind and generous in showing it on a regular basis. You will learn a great deal in a short period of time about men's fashions of the period.

    Atlanta History Center has a number of civilian garments in their collection, as does the Alabama Commission on Archives and History, and Confederate Memorial Park at Marbury, Alabama.

    In the meantime, get a copy of Thoughts on Men's Shirts to start with basic construction and stitching questions.
    Terre Hood Biederman
    Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.
    sigpic
    Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

    ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

    Comment

    • #3
      Re: Clothing Question

      Ms. Lawson:

      I appreciate the reply. I have visited the Atlanta History Center, but not since I have really gotten on the civilian side of reenacting. I will have to ride over there again sometime to check out their exhibits. I believe I have seen the exhibits at Kennesaw Mountain one weekend while I was working with Chickamauga NMP, but yet again, I was not as interested in civilian garments at that time. I am primarily interested in upper-middle class impressions such as attorneys, statesmen, etc. in and around a deep south/west town with a sizable population of around 1,000-6,000. I thumbed through the book entitled Ready-made Democracy: A History of Men's Dress in the American Republic, 1760-1860 by Michael Zakim in the Houston Cole Library on campus about a week ago, but did not get any solid answers concerning material for construction. Who is the author of the publication you suggested?

      Thanks again.
      [FONT="Book Antiqua"][B]Christopher P. Young[/B]
      [/FONT] [URL="http://bullyforbragg.blogspot.com"]Army of Tennessee[/URL]
      [URL="http://www.antebellumpoliticing.blogspot.com/"]Our Federal Union, It Must Be Preserved[/URL]
      [FONT="Palatino Linotype"]"Of all the properties which belong to honorable men, not one is so highly prized as that of character." Secretary of State Henry Clay, July 27,1827[/FONT]

      Comment

      • #4
        Re: Clothing Question

        Now that we are slowly recovering our lost data base, I've begun to forget the great gaps missing when the Search engine is run.

        See post 2 in this thread for the particular reference, as well as some other excellent books.
        Authentic Campaigner
        http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8135&highlight=thoughts+on+men%27s+shirts
        Terre Hood Biederman
        Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.
        sigpic
        Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

        ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

        Comment

        • #5
          Re: Clothing Question

          Now that you've narrowed it down some to the 'professional' classes in the Deep South, you'll be looking at:

          Linen shirts for dress shirts---most daily wear in these professions.
          High quality wool in a variety of weaves and finishes for frocks and trousers, as well as the occassional linen frock. In each case, the coat is lined, and the breast and shoulders padded and quilted. Linings were often a polished cotton--predominately brown, but other fabrics were used.

          Machine sewing was available, but would have been used predominately for straight, long seams. All finish work, padding, topstitching, buttonholes, ect. to be done by hand, with thead of cotton or linen.

          Waistcoats could be of silk, either solid or figured, lined, and with a back of a less expensive fabric, or could also be of wool. I have not seen a linen one, but would not be surprised to find they existed.

          Suits of "dittos' were coming into fashion--with all pieces of the same fabric, but were not the rule.
          Terre Hood Biederman
          Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.
          sigpic
          Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

          ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: Clothing Question

            Ms. Lawson:

            Thanks again!! This helps a lot. Could you suggest any individuals that sell this type of material? I have a few leads but am very interested in your opinion. I am also having a tailcoat made and have noticed in several daguerreotypes that some of the gentlemen seem to have velvet on the upper portion of the lapels. Have you noticed this as well?

            Many Thanks Again,
            [FONT="Book Antiqua"][B]Christopher P. Young[/B]
            [/FONT] [URL="http://bullyforbragg.blogspot.com"]Army of Tennessee[/URL]
            [URL="http://www.antebellumpoliticing.blogspot.com/"]Our Federal Union, It Must Be Preserved[/URL]
            [FONT="Palatino Linotype"]"Of all the properties which belong to honorable men, not one is so highly prized as that of character." Secretary of State Henry Clay, July 27,1827[/FONT]

            Comment

            • #7
              Re: Clothing Question

              As Terre said, it's a broad question. One small part of it though does lend itself to a simple answer. The classic middle-upper class fabric for a non-hot-weather frock coat or tail coat was wool superfine broadcloth. Of course there were other options too, and linen for hot weather. But "broadcloth" was a symbol of the professional or upper-class, in the way that "homespun" or "butternut" was a symbol for the backwoods lower-class.

              Superfine broadcloth is hard to find today in a quality that's both fine enough and lightweight enough. It's a wool fabric with a special finish that's been teasled and shaved to produce a sleek felt-like finish, so the actual weave isn't visible until the finish is worn off. I'd guess it's what Jefferson Davis is wearing here http://teachpol.tcnj.edu/amer_pol_hist/fi/000000bf.jpg . Or Alexander Stephens here http://www.historyplace.com/civilwar...x/stephens.jpg Not just a southern thing, though--Lincoln and northern businessmen and politicians wore it too.

              The fabric also helps in the construction, because you can sew very close to the edge, trim the bottom of the skirt without it raveling, steam the collar to shape, and so forth.

              Abimelech Hainsworth in England was one of the best-known suppliers of it in recent years. I say "was," because I haven't purchased some within the last six or eight years, so I don't know if there's anyplace else similar or better today. I purchased some from them a few years ago (called their "superfine"--for some reason they generally omit the word "broadcloth"), and the finish was excellent, but it was slightly heavier than the typical broadcloth I've seen in originals. Close, and certainly within the realm of possibly variations, but if there's something equally good but lighter weight, it'd be even better and more comfortable in warm weather too.

              And if you think that's hard to find, don't even mention the classic lining. Alpaca. Good luck on that one! Heck, let's dream: we really need black alpaca that fades to green.

              Looking at originals will give you an idea of what you're searching for in the way of fabrics, and what substitutes might do, or what less-common variations are easier to reproduce.

              Hank Trent
              hanktrent@voyager.net
              Hank Trent

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