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The use of linen in outer wear was not unusual during the appropriate season--it breathes well and is hard-wearing.
I recently viewed a truely unusual military piece as well--a linen uniform coat in the collection of the Alabama Department of Archives and History--not a linsey woolsey either, but a fine all linen dress frock.
One does have to either line the item well, or become accustomed to the rather rumpled appearance of unlined linen. It is however, far more comfortable than cotton of the same weight and weave.
Terre Hood Biederman
Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.
sigpic Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.
I have seen a few linen sack coats for officers. The nicest one I have come accross is at the Kennesaw NMP visitor's center that I believe was worn by Gen French.
I always thought linen was far more common than cotton, in spite of being in a cotton growing area.
[SIZE="2"][/SIZE][FONT="Comic Sans MS"][SIZE="3"]John Hopper[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE="2"][SIZE="1"][SIZE="2"]Winston Free-State/First Confederate Legion/AoT
Member of The Company of Military Historians[/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]
A friend of mine owns a very nice original linen frock that was identified as having been worn to a mid-1850's wedding. The frock is unlined and entirely machine sewn except for the buttonholes. The neatest feature is that all of the interior body seams are covered with cotton tape that is machine sewn into place.
Brian White
Wambaugh, White, & Co.
Brian White
[URL="http://wwandcompany.com"]Wambaugh, White, & Co.[/URL]
[URL="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517"]https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wambaugh-White-Company/114587141930517[/URL]
[email]brian@wwandcompany.com[/email]
We had two linen sack coats on display at the Conference. One, from Brian Merrick's collection, was made in the 'traditional' style - double layer collar, front facings, two exterior patch pockets, one interior patch pocket. The other one, from my collection, appears to be a ready-to-wear garment. Same style as Brian's, but it is one layer of fabric including the collar. All of the edges are double-folded to the right side and top stitched in place, all seams except the armscyes are run-and-fell, armscye seams are overcast by hand. Neither coat is lined; both show evidence of starching.
I also have a pristine pair of linen trousers and several linen vests. One of the vests is unlined with a single layer back - feature I've found on other summer vests. The trousers are heavily starched; the vests lightly starched.
I've only seen a few summer frock coats: some linen, one seersucker, one dimity. None of them were lined.
Carolann Schmitt
[email]cschmitt@genteelarts.com[/email]
20th Annual Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 6-9, 2014
"Those fine fellows in Virginia are pouring out their heart's blood like water. Virginia will be heroic dust--the army of glorious youth that has been buried there."--Mary Chesnut
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