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  • A little something for a rainy day

    One of the fine things about the 2 1/2 year lead time we had in planning for the civilian portion of Banks Grand Retreat was the theoretical availability of time to upgrade clothing to accomodate a wide range of weather variables.

    With a large number of growing children to clothe for a week in the wilderness, as well as menfolk, that time melted away as quickly as late snow in a warm rain.....but some things did get done.

    One of the most useful to me was my raincoat--made by the capable hands of Beverly Simpson. On day two of our adventure, we got nearly 4 inches of rain. Day three was not appreciably dryer. While I was wringing water out of my wool petticoats, the bodice of my wool dress remained dry and comfortable under my period raincoat.

    Using a "waterproof silk" with a slightly oily feel, obtained from Fashion Fabric Club, the garment was constructed from Period Impressions Sacque pattern # 408, with slight adaptations.

    In keeping with our stated goal of depicting lower farming class, the lines of the garment were very conservative, with no trim or other embelllishment. A simple coat hook was used for closure.

    The coat sleeves were cut generously in order to fit over my wool dress, and additional length was added to the arms, in order to extend to my fingers. Since we also figured that, as civilian coordinator, I'd have to be walking extended distances in rainy weather to check on remote camps, some length was also added to the sacque. The garment was lined in black cotton, which did stay dry despite driving rain.

    For head covering, I had two options---a soft bonnet of the same silk, with a subdued plaid lining, or a Goodyear rubber headcover with a hard visor. While the latter kept water off my spectacles better, it was also excessively warm---I quickly changed to the soft bonnet and took to squinting.

    The silk wrinkles easily and does need to be hung to maintain a neat appearance. Despite repeated soakings, it dried quickly and continued to repel water. I wore it again last weekend, in similar conditions and with equal sucess. Cleaning instructions with the fabric indicate that machine washing will decrease the water repellancy---I imagine that eventually it will need an application of Scotchguard, but as mud splatter brushed right off when dry, I don't anticipate that need anytime soon.

    Our research indicated an additional option when looking at rain gear for this class--that of oiled canvas. I've used this product in earlier time periods--its cruder in appearance, and heavier in weight, and would have certainly been in keeping with the class we choose to protray. It is heavier in weight, and does not breathe as well as silk---had we been in February rather than mid-March, I would have considered it more strongly. As it was, I was glad that my shoulders did not have to carry that additional weight.

    Beverly's next project (in this time period at least, for she now has caught the 18th century bug from Kimberlee, Diana and me) is a dressy version of this garment--this one in a nice taupe, with black bias trim, not unlike that pictured on the pattern used.

    All in all, an excellent investment of time and energy for a very useful garment--and one that takes up a minimal amount of space. Folded neatly in a carpet bag with its soft bonnet, it requires no more room than a clean chemise.
    Terre Hood Biederman
    Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

    sigpic
    Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

    ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

  • #2
    Re: A little something for a rainy day

    What a "great" coat (pun intended).

    As it seems that every event my group ever goes to involves rain (we have taken to calling ourselves "rainactors"), I WANT ONE!!! Which silk from Fashion Fabrics was it, do you remember???
    Polly Steenhagen
    [url]www.2nddelaware.com[/url]
    AGSAS

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    • #3
      Re: A little something for a rainy day

      Civil war events seem to be unique in that at almost all of them you can stand knee deep in mud and have dust blow in your eyes. Any article of clothing that comforts you in these conditions is truly an asset.

      Robert Hooker

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: A little something for a rainy day

        Polly,

        It was one of those 'on sale' things--- a 100% silk touted as water resistant. I imagine it is the same stuff those high-class foldable raincoats are made of today.

        We sucked up the major portion of the availability last summer--I'd suggest watching their site again.
        Terre Hood Biederman
        Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

        sigpic
        Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

        ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: A little something for a rainy day

          Ms Lawson, you just made a sale for someone. I have been wanting a raincoat for a while. I went to ebay and found the pattern, (there is one left if anyone else wants one) and I know where to buy the silk. It rains every time we go to Texas.

          Evelyn Rard

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          • #6
            Re: A little something for a rainy day

            Ladies,

            I just jumped over to Fashion fabrics club and they have three colors available right now. (Brown, red, and tan). Type in waterproof silk in the search. It is 8.00 a yard.

            Hope everyone stays dry.

            Beverly Simpson

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            • #7
              Re: A little something for a rainy day

              Miss Terre,

              Cornbread had told me about the wonderful raincoat you wore at BGR and I have been meaning to contact you. This is wonderful news as we all have need of this type of garment from time to time.

              Thank you for sharing this.

              Sherry Key.
              Sherry Key
              aka Mrs. Cornbread

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: A little something for a rainy day

                I did pretty well live in that fine raincoat Miss Sherry :D . What's even funnier was I tried to sell the man's rubber rain hat when it was not raining, and got no takers. When it was raining, the fellers would have paid three prices for what I had on, and worn it gladly.

                That particular garmet was roughly hip length, which would pose a problem for anyone who was not po' white and unconcerned about appearance. By the time Cornbread saw me the first time, we'd been there 4 days. By the time he saw me the second time, we'd been there 6 days, and nothing mattered but hot food, clean water, and folks we loved.

                For those ladies of more substantial means, with finer dresses to cover:

                One of my favorite patterns is Galla Rock Merchantile's Pardessus---if memory serves correctly (goodness knows I could not find the pattern in the house right now if my life depended on it) the garment is from 1858.

                Its a unique pattern in that it seems to fit all and sundry in 'grown women'. It fit Darling Daughter at 5 foot nothing and 100 pounds and it fit Sister at 5' 7" and when she was 3 times the weight---all with no adjustments--one size fits everyone.

                If I was making a rain garment to cover a fine dress or ball gown, I'd use this pattern.
                Terre Hood Biederman
                Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

                sigpic
                Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

                ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: A little something for a blistering day

                  Mrs. Lawson,

                  It sounds as though your choice of a coat was a great one, indeed, I like that pattern myself. I've made a bunch of various coats over the years. Recently I just finished the FigLeaf Ladies Paletote and it's a wool plaid trimmed with a two tone velvet ribbon, not much really. I call it the 'best coat of a poor woman look.' At any rate, along with this wool coat, I've done two wool dresses, one fancy, one simple. And wouldn't you know it, the weather that I had expected at tomorrow's event which I was certain sure would be damp and cold ---86 degrees expected!!! OHG, how will I survive that hellish heat even in a cotton dress! 82 degrees that temp our town has on record and even on the hottest days of summer it seldom gets over 74. so much for all my plans and preparation.

                  Why is it that when I plan and pack for a certain type of weather I get just the opposite? I guess Providence likes a good laugh just like the rest of us.:D
                  Mfr,
                  Judith Peebles.
                  No Wooden Nutmegs Sold Here.
                  [B]Books![B][/B][/B] The Original Search Engine.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: A little something for a rainy day

                    Mrs. Peebles,

                    Change to a hankerchief linen chemise. Wet it down. Put on corset and tie as loosely as you can get away with and still have proper lines and support.

                    Drawers optional-personal choice. Put on modesty petticoat and working hoop. See if you can get away without a second petticoat over it--depends entirely on the hand and hang of the dress.

                    Put on tropical weight wool dress. Open collar. Wet linen kerchief and arrange artfully around neck. Rewet as needed.

                    My old reliable slat bonnet has wooden slats for a reason--so I can drag it through the horse trough and slam it right back on my head. That's not terribly dignified.

                    The rest of the outfit is though, and looks and feels no more or less comfortable than the average tourist, who is also 'hot in that', and far more subject to sunburn.

                    Seriously, with a linen chemise--in my case, past knee length and doubleing as the under petticoat, I do alright up into the low 90's, with our steambath humidity. I've disposed of almost all of my cotton dresses---the only one I have left is a sheer sacque and petticoat.
                    Terre Hood Biederman
                    Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

                    sigpic
                    Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

                    ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: A little something for a rainy day

                      Mrs. Peebles,

                      As you know, I am out there in conditions very similar to yours. In addition up at the Fort at 4400 ft elevation in the top of the Grapevine, we endure extreme highs and lows. It can be 90 degrees or better in the afternoon, but once the sun goes down you need a wrap and have plenty of bed covers on hand. During the heat of the day, I have been known to sneak on over to the horse trough and drench down my petticoats for relief. In addition, I wear a corded stay instead of a corset which can be wet down as well. I can attest to what Mrs. Lawson is saying about the wet chemise. One of the other ladies and I accidentally experimented with that after “showering” in the waterfall at BGR and discovering we had forgotten fresh undergarments. We had no choice but to put our dresses back on over very wet drawers and chemises. It felt wonderful!

                      I am ditching my cotton dresses in favor of light weight wool. Mizz Terre, Emily and Beverly and I all had a good snicker about the mysterious new patches that appeared on that one cotton dress of mine at BGR. ;) Lessons learned: Wool doesn't burn as easily as cotton and sheds the water a heck of a lot better in a 4 inch down pour. I was out in my one light weight wool dress the end of last month in 85 degree weather and found no difference between it and a cotton dress as far as comfort.

                      Mrs. Lawson, I like the idea of wooden slats and think I’ll switch mine out. I have been wetting down and slipping one of Dirty Billy’s Sun Stroke Cushions into my bonnet.
                      Last edited by Cottoncarder; 04-25-2007, 06:04 PM.
                      [FONT=Book Antiqua][/FONT][COLOR=Navy]Barb McCreary (also known as Bertie)
                      Herbal Folk Healer, Weaver and Maker of Fine Lye Soap[/COLOR]
                      [url]www.winstontown.com[/url]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: A little something for a rainy day

                        Originally posted by Cottoncarder View Post
                        I am ditching my cotton dresses in favor of light weight wool. Mizz Terre, Emily and Beverly and I all had a good snicker about the mysterious new patches that appeared on that one cotton dress of mine at BGR. ;) Lessons learned: Wool doesn't burn as easily as cotton and sheds the water a heck of a lot better in a 4 inch down pour. I was out in my one light weight wool dress the end of last month in 85 degree weather and found no difference between it and a cotton dress as far as comfort.

                        Mrs. Lawson, I like the idea of wooden slats and think I’ll switch mine out. I have been wetting down and slipping one of Dirty Billy’s Sun Stroke Cushions into my bonnet.
                        Miz Bertie---While it momentarily escapes me exactly how we set you on fire, I do remember the patches.

                        What you could not see were the fine little darnings at the bottom of my brown wool dress, the result of stepping into the fire and catching up without ever noticing it, I believe at Corinth. The fine wool self extinguished, and it was not until I began to brush and air it that I noticed my mishap.

                        Now, while others mileage may most certainly vary, Beverly Simpson (who knows a heck of a lot about fabrics and the care of them) noted how tatty my wool dress was looking about a year ago, the result of many grease spots that never quite came out. She explained to me what the dry cleaners was Not Doing and suggested that I hand wash that fine polished cotton lined wool dress, after pre-treating the myriad of spots and stains. Worked like a charm. So, instead of dry cleaning once a year, I'm hand washing instead. I'm happier, dress looks better, and is none the worse for the experience.

                        Make you a linen bonnet so it will dry quickly and not sour, and use wooden slatting---one solution is the reed used for basket weaving. I got a woodworker to cut thin little slats for me, 1 inch wide, 8 inches long. Sand off the corners just a bit so they will slide into bonnet easily.

                        Anything that gets you damp and then allows some air to circulate will cool you off--this includes pouring water down between your corset and chemise. Its a momentary breath of refreshment, and in small amounts does not perk though the lining of the dress badly.

                        On the worst days, when I simply must demo for a school program and its too hot for spinning ---because the wool won't flow from my sweaty hands, another sure fire remedy is a dishpan of cold water---in my case, with one bare foot in it, while the other one is running the spinning wheel, all covered by my skirts. Keeping that one foot cold keeps me from sweating ---and thus allows me to spin and talk to the school children.
                        Terre Hood Biederman
                        Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

                        sigpic
                        Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

                        ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: A little something for a rainy day

                          Mrs. Terre and Miz Simpson,

                          After having time to ponder the fine description of your wonderful rain coat I have a couple of questions.

                          Is it flat lined (period tecnique) or modern method? Any tips on needle/thread? Hand or machine sewn? Collar?

                          Thank you again for sharing and now I have another project to add to the list!

                          Sherry Key.
                          Sherry Key
                          aka Mrs. Cornbread

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: A little something for a rainy day

                            Mrs. Lawson, and Mrs. McCreary,

                            Oh, I'm way ahead of you on the under-linens. I buy some nice imported stuff from Switzerland, fine, light, and wears like iron. I have to say that I wasn't much for layers of petticoats, one was good enough for me since all chemises are long (I'm short). It was either the corded petticoat and one cotton, or the cage and one cotton petticoat. I already use kind of a balsa wood for my slats so am in total agreement with you there. Great minds think alike eh?:D

                            I'm not one for damp clothes though. I think part of this is that I have difficulty with humidity and heat. I like being dry, but have once and a while been known to wet a calash and wear that as it never actually touches the hair because of the boning, but is quite cool on the face (they sure aren't kewl to look at, hence their name of 'ugly')

                            Wool certainly is best when the weather is nasty, even light rains shed the water best when wearing wool. I had thought about the idea of varnishing cloth to make a 'slicker.' I know that fellas do this for hats, but it seems that it would have been a useful thing for a woman to do if she didn't have the means or opportunity to buy better. What do you think? Of course, I don't want it soooo slick that it looks like I cut up someone's floorcloth. Well, it doesn't matter all that much anyway as I've got about 7 different coats for bad weather....mind you, that won't stop me from making more. No doubt some here reading this are thinking that "she's bats, that lady needs to see a doctor" but rest asured, I'm not so nutty after all, I just like sewing period clothes.
                            Mfr,
                            Judith Peebles.
                            No Wooden Nutmegs Sold Here.
                            [B]Books![B][/B][/B] The Original Search Engine.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: A little something for a rainy day

                              Sherry---the answer on every question is -- a combination.

                              Rather like the great pardesseus, you want this garment to create pockets of air ---which means you don't do a true hard flat lining, or it will tend to leak at the seams. Instead, there is a lot of basting going on, with seams being covered.

                              So, in essence, 2 coats are constructed, one of silk outer layer, one of cotton inner layer. Sleeves are inset by hand, but the bulk of the work is by machine. This silk is supple---you don't get that funny "pook pook" sound when sewing it by machine that happens with other waterproofs.

                              The original pattern instructions do not call for a permanent collar, but illustrated a decorative one--but that was for a slightly different type of garment. In keeping with my overall socio-economic impression, we left off a fine collar entirely,and brought the neckline up slightly higher, to cover or nearly cover the underlying dress collar. The curtain of the lined bonnet is then long enough to provide a good shield against rain.
                              Terre Hood Biederman
                              Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

                              sigpic
                              Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

                              ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

                              Comment

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