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Remembrance of 1897 about wartime clothing

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  • Remembrance of 1897 about wartime clothing

    Jennie Friend Stephenson recalled in April 1897 her life during the war. I share with you her description of her clothing:

    "More than once we were frightened by the report of raiders coming through the country. I recall one scare, which made my Mother array herself in two or three silks at the same time, which she wore for day and nights. Valuable papers also weighed her person. We children too, were dressed in our best, but clothes for us were scarce at this time. My best dress was a pretty plaid, made in the winter of 1861. My second best, always donned, whoever the caller might be, was a dark brown calico, such as I have seen used for the cheapest comforts, of quality so inferior, never before or since, have I known its use for a garment. This dress and a pattern like it had been presented to my oldest sister and our cousin, Bessie Gibson, by their Uncle, Bishop Atkinson; but so limited was the number of yards, low necked dresses and short sleeves were all that could be devised out of the goods. Even in war times, the dresses proved of little use; the color of the goods indicating winter wear, and the cut of the garment for summer, so the dress passed on to me, the length of the skirt allowing enough for yoke and sleeves. A new calico was most coveted in those days, and I felt very neat and complacent in it. No doubt my home or morning garb was such as to make one enjoy a change to calico. So far as I knew over-skirts at this time, ahd never appeared within the memory of man, otherwise my appearance would not have been so shocking, I was clad in an upper garment of brown of mouslaine, with roses scattered over it, and with three bands of purple running around the bottom. A pretty dress, originally, of my sister's, but outgrown and out worn by her, I fell heir to it, but it would not come within a foot of the bottom of skirt's length. This deficit was made up by a striped, homespun, woolen petticoat, copperas the predominating color. This get-up distressed my Father; he thought that petticoat hanging, could make me untidy, at this formative period of life, and more than that, the skirt, was not white, and colored underwear for a lady was thought an obomination. My Mother busied herself in studying various patterns for weaving and had dying done with the bark of trees from the wood, and such stuff as could be bought. Indigo and copperas were the highest colorings to be had. My sister's Sunday dress was blue and white homespun cotton, and thought very pretty. With all these admissions of defective costumes, we were better supplied with raiment than our friends about us. My Father had interest in a boat that ran the blockade to Nassau. This winter he secured by it a hundred yards of fine white linen, and a dozen pair of ladies cloth gaiters. These supplies seemed an immeasurable wealth to our eyes. Then the bit supply of osnaburg, bought for the field hands at the beginning of the war, had not failed and was now used for our underclothing. For common wear, the most miserable shoes were made in the neighborhood. They proved a torture to our feet, but there was no help, we were blessed in having even them. The weavers did better work than the cobblers. I had learned to plat hats of straw and shucks, and for ladies, ornamented them with feather flowers. Our gloves and hosiery were knit by Grandmother. Old silk, scraped, and spun into a thread, were the finest specimens of home manufacture."

    She was the daughter of Charles Friend, a wealthy planter in Prince George County, Virginia.
    Last edited by Emmanuel Dabney; 06-29-2007, 05:23 PM.
    Sincerely,
    Emmanuel Dabney
    Atlantic Guard Soldiers' Aid Society
    http://www.agsas.org

    "God hasten the day when war shall cease, when slavery shall be blotted from the face of the earth, and when, instead of destruction and desolation, peace, prosperity, liberty, and virtue shall rule the earth!"--John C. Brock, Commissary Sergeant, 43d United States Colored Troops

  • #2
    Feather Flowers

    I found this article about making "feather flowers" in the December issue of Peterson' Magazine.

    Peterson’s Magazine October 1861
    Page 315

    Making Feather Flowers.

    The Art of Making Feather Flowers is scarcely known or practiced in this country; but they can be made to equal foreign productions from the plumage of the common goose, and will, at trifling expense, produce bouquets of all the garden favorites.
    1. Procure good white goose or swan’s feathers, and free them from down, except a little on the shaft of the feather.
    2. Having procured two good specimens of the flower you wish to imitate, pull off the petals of one, and, with tissue paper, cut out the shape of each size, leaving the shaft of the feather half an inch longer than the petal of the flower; bend the feather with the thumb and finger to the proper shape.
    3. To Make The Stem and Heart of a Flower.-Take a piece of wire six inches long; across the top lay a small piece of cotton wool, turn the wire over it, and wind it round until it is the size of the heart, or center of the flower your are going to imitate. If a single flower, cover it with paste or velvet of the proper color, and round it must be arranged the stamens; these are made of fine Indian silk, or feathers may be used for this purpose. After the petals have been attached, the silk or feather is dipped into gum, and then into the farina. Place the petals round, one at a time, and wind them on with Moravian cotton, No.4; arrange them as nearly like the flower you have for a copy as possible. Cut the stems of the feathers even, and then make the calyx of feathers, cut like the pattern or natural flower. For small flowers the calyx is made with paste. Cover the stems with paper or silk the same as the flowers; the paper must be cut in narrow strips, about a quarter of an inch wide.

    To Make The Pastes Of The Calix, Hearts, and Buds Of Flowers.- Take common white
    starch and mix it with gum water until it is the substance of thick treacle; color it with the dyes used for the feathers, and keep it from the air.

    To Make The Farina.-Use common ground rice, mixed into a stiff paste with any dye; dry it before the fire, and when quite hard, pound it to a fine powder. The buds, berries, and hearts of some double flowers are made with cotton wool, wound around wire, molded to the shape with thumb and finger. Smooth it over with gum water, and when dry, cover the buds, berries, or calyx with the proper colored pastes: they will require one or two coats, and may be shaded with a little paint, and then gummed and left to dry.
    Flowers of two or more shades or colors are variegated with water-colors, mixed with lemon-juice, ultramarine and chrome for blue, and gold may also be used in powder, mixed with lemon-juice and gum water.
    The materials required are some good white goose or swan’s feathers; a little fine wire, different sizes; a few skeins of fine floss silk, some good cotton wool or wadding, a reel of No. 4 Moravian cotton, a skein of Indian silk, the starch and gum for pastes, and a pair of small sharp scissors, a few sheets of colored silk paper, and some watercolors, with the following dyes.

    To Dye Feathers Blue.-Into two pennyworth of oil of vitriol, mix two pennyworths of the best indigo in powder; let it stand a day or two; when wanted shake it well, and into a quart of boiling water put one tablespoonful of the liquid. Stir it well, put the feathers in, and let them simmer a few minutes.

    To Dye Feathers Yellow.-Put a tablespoonful of the best turmeric into a quart of boiling water; when well mixed put in the feathers. More or less of the turmeric will give them different shades, and a very small quantity of soda will give them an orange hue.

    To Dye Feathers Green.-Mix the indigo liquid with turmeric, and pour boiling water over it; let the feathers simmer in the dye until they have acquired the shade you want them.

    Pink Dye.-Three good pink saucers in a quart of boiling water, with a small quantity of cream of tartar. If a deep color is required, use four saucers. Let the feathers remain in the dye several hours.

    To Dye Feathers Lilac.-About two teaspoonfuls of cudbear, into a quart of boiling water; let it simmer a few minutes before you put in the feathers. A small quantity of cream of tartar turns the color form lilac to amethyst.

    To Dye Feathers Red.-Into a quart of boiling water dissolve a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, put in one tablespoonful of prepared cochineal, and then a few drops of muriate of tin. N.B.-this dye is expensive, and scarlet flowers are best made with the plumage of the red Ibis, which can generally be had of a bird-fancier.

    Before The Feathers are Dyed they must be put into hot water, and let them drain before they are put into the dyes. After they are taken out of the dye, rinse them tow or three times in clear cold water (except the red), which must only be done once. Then lay them on a tray, over which a cloth has been spread, before a good fire; when they begin to dry and unfold, draw each feather gently between your thumb and finger, until it regains its proper shape.
    The Leaves Of The flowers are made of green feathers, cut like those of the natural flower, and serrated at the edge with a very small pair of scissors. For the calyx of a moss-rose the down is left on the feather, and is a very good representation of the moss on the natural flower.

    Susan Armstrong

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    • #3
      Re: Remembrance of 1897 about wartime clothing

      I forgot to mention on here that Jennie was 9 in 1860.

      Thanks for sharing that Susan, I was wondering.
      Sincerely,
      Emmanuel Dabney
      Atlantic Guard Soldiers' Aid Society
      http://www.agsas.org

      "God hasten the day when war shall cease, when slavery shall be blotted from the face of the earth, and when, instead of destruction and desolation, peace, prosperity, liberty, and virtue shall rule the earth!"--John C. Brock, Commissary Sergeant, 43d United States Colored Troops

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Remembrance of 1897 about wartime clothing

        I also found other versions in Godey's on Accessible Archives if you have access.
        A slightly different version in March 1864 and similar ones in the March 1853 and 1858.

        Susan Armstrong

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