Stitches-Per-Inch

[motozulli]

With so much (joking and not-joking) talk about stitches-per-inch in our hobby, I thought it would be good to clarify exactly what this means.

I always assumed that one counted only the visible stitches, but the costume curator at MCNY said that one should count the stitches on the outside and inside of the seam.

So is this how everyone does it?

Thanks,

[paulcalloway]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

Perhaps someone with more sewing experience will chime in here, but I'll offer this.

Generally speaking, this refers to top-stitching. When assembling a garment, top-stitching is an important part of the construction.

An able sewing hand, particularly of the 19th century, would top-stitch 8-10 stitches per inch (and sometimes more). This results in a better constructed garment and a finer looking garment.

So look at an original 19th century garment's top-stitching. Estimate an inch and count the stitches and it will look something like this: -------- as opposed to the stitching we often see on poorly constructed reproduction garments which is more akin to:

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

Alaina -

The comments made by the curator at MCNY are consistent with what I've read and have heard in discussions with other costume historians. In a plain seam, sewn with a running stitch, e.g. - - - - - - , each stitch and each space is a stitch; the space is actually a stitch on the other side of the fabric. EX: If a plain seam shows 8 stitches and 8 spaces in one inch, it's sewn at 16 stitches per inch.

With all due respect to Paul's comments, the number of stitches/inch refers to any kind of sewing, not just top-stitching. On a back-stitched seam, where the stitches touch one another on one side of the seam and overlap on the other, the stitch count would be the number of adjacent stitches/inch. On a spaced back-stitched seam, where the stitches on one side have a space equal to the length of the stitch between each stitch and the stitches overlap on the wrong side, the stitch count would be the total number of stitches and spaces. On a overhand seam, used to join two pieces of fabric together at the very edge of the fabric leaving no seam allowance, the stitches/inch would be the number of individual whip stitches. There would be two stitch counts for a run-and-fell seam: one for the running stitch used to sew the seam and one for the whipped stitches used to fell the seam allowance.

The following is a list of average stitch counts for hand-sewn seams based on a survey of original garments. As always there are exceptions on each side of the range.
- Plain seams on dresses (skirt or sleeve seams): 8-12 stitches/inch
- Bodice and armscye seams on dresses: 10-16 stitches/inch
- Run and fell seams on women's undergarments: run at 10-16 stitches/inch; felled at 10-20 stitches/inch.
- Overhand seams on men's shirts, women's chemises, etc: 16-28 stitches/inch.
- Whipped stitches on men's vests (to secure lining, finish armscyes, etc.): 10-20 stitches/inch.
- Handsewn buttonholes, varies with thread size, average: 12-20 stitches/inch.

And for comparison:
Machine-sewn seams on women's undergarments and men's white shirts: 15-20 stitches/inch.

The finest hand-sewing I've seen on a reproduction garment was an 18th century shirt made by Mark Hutter at Colonial Williamsburg. The seams were run at 24-28 stitches/inch and felled at 30-34 stitches/inch. Wonderful work!

[paulcalloway]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

With all due respect to Paul's comments, the number of stitches/inch refers to any kind of sewing, not just top-stitching.

No doubt about that. It's just in my experience with a handful of real "stitch-counters", they would grab the sleeve of your sack coat and take one look at the top-stitching around the cuff and give you either a glance of approval or a glance of disdain.

Those days are behind us though, probably.

[Hank Trent]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

No doubt about that. It's just in my experience with a handful of real "stitch-counters", they would grab the sleeve of your sack coat and take one look at the top-stitching around the cuff and give you either a glance of approval or a glance of disdain.

Those days are behind us though, probably.

I can't quite tell from your previous post, are you saying the average reenacting "stitch counter" you knew would count the visible stitches, and not the spaces, of a running stitch? In other words, the way Alaina assumed and the opposite of what Carolann and the MCNY curator said?

When I was talking to some quilters many years ago, I mentioned a garment that was sewn at 22 stitches per inch. They argued it was impossible, you'd just be going up and down in the same hole almost. I said it was backstitches, and that seemed to make a difference. They believed me then. So apparently they were counting only the visible stitches also, and thought I meant a running stitch with 22 visible stitches or 44 actual stitches.

Yep, on this page is an illustration of quilting at "7 stitches per inch" beside a ruler, that counts only the visible ones: http://www.amishcountrylanes.com/Pag...tQuality.shtml .

So that's one subset who apparently does count only the visible stitches, and possibly Paul's military reenacting example as well. Maybe it depends on what background the counter comes from, quilting, costume curating, military reenacting?

Since I just had to edit this to fix a typo near the hyperlink, I'll also add: I thought the same as Carolann, that the question was about whether to count the visible stitches only or the spaces too in a running stitch, which is a question that's always bugged me also.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[paulcalloway]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

Hank -
Perhaps we can get some more military guys to chime in, but what I thought Aliana was asking was pretty much what the basis of the term stitch-counter was - as in the offensive term as it relates to authentic reenacting.

In my experience, hobbiests that have developed a reputation as "stitch-counters" have done it by examining top-stitching and counting visible stitches.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

Maybe it depends on what background the counter comes from, quilting, costume curating, military reenacting?

Hank,
That's quite possible; the information we learn from the "subset" in which we are active is usually the standard that we continue to use. Other subsets may have different standards which may or may not be the most common universally. My subset includes dressmakers, tailors, and needleworkers from and costume historians. I count stitches and spaces on the same side of the seam to determine stitch count for this reason:

The motions used in making a stitch are:
- Bring the threaded needle to one side of the fabric.
- Move the needle a certain distance from the entry point.
- Return the needle to the other side of the fabric.
You've now made one stitch.

On stitches that incorporate spaces into the stitching, e.g. running, spaced backstitch, etc., you are making a second stitch on the opposite side of the fabric. You're using the same motions with the same result. Thus, the space on the first side of the fabric equals one stitch. This is the same methodology that others within my subset use.

Paul,
Maybe I misunderstood Alaina's question. I thought she was asking if we counted stitches, or stitches and spaces. Alaina, what did you mean? :)

I do agree that in some reenacting circles, some participants may use the phrase "stitch counter" as a derogatory term. I've never viewed striving to reproduce garments using construction techniques equal to the common standards of the period as derogatary. I see it as a goal to be achieved - just as important as learning how to drill as they did during the period, or converse and behave as citizens did during the period.

[motozulli]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

Carolann, you understood my question correctly, and gave a nicely thorough answer. I especially appreciate the list of typical Stitches-per-inch, and I think that will be a helpful list to keep around in the database.

Thanks,

[rebjeb04]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

To All,

This is a great alternate forum I found for more indepth and intermediate levels of period sewing. Jim Ruley, has some great images showing construction of many garments we have questions concerning. Especially federal uniforms. Might be something of great reference for you do-it-yourself fellas with alot of questions on clothing construction. I only wish I had known about it along time ago!!

http://www.thesewingacademy.com/

If your interested in construction of civilian or mid-19th cent. uniforms, you wont go wrong here.

[Vuhginyuh]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

...a list of average stitch counts for hand-sewn seams based on a survey of original garments...

Would the same apply to a blind stitch where the ----- would appear on a hidden side and not the visible seam?

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

Garrison -

Where are you using the blind stitch? The answer may differ depending on the application.

[Vuhginyuh]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

Garrison -

Where are you using the blind stitch? The answer may differ depending on the application.

A few places; the binding and sweatband of a hat and the cuffs and trim of a coat. Both are what I will call “very antebellum”.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Stitches-Per-Inch

Garrison -

I'm afraid I'm not going to be much help. I've not examined enough examples of "very antebellum" or even antebellum coats to develop an average stitch count, although I can state that the garments I have examined have been very finely sewn. I know very little about the construction of men's hats; Tim Bender may be able to assist you with that question.