Sloppy Seamstress?

[23rdIllinoisIrish]

Hello all,
I wanted to contribute a few picture I took at General Sweeney's CW Museum at Wilson's Creek here in Springfield, MO. I am uncertain of the regional origin of the dress (perhaps Ms. Clark, Ms. Allen, or others could answer this) but from CDV's and fabric samples I have studied, it appears to be of Trans-Mississippi origin. The main point of interest to me is the wandering stitches, the "half" waistband that appears to be stitched crookedly to the front and does not encompass the entirety of the waist, the button holes, and the pieced collar. I imagine much of the fabric construction relates to a conservation of fabric (i.e. the pieced collar and waistband) but am unsure of why the stitching seems so off--for lack of a better word.

Do you think it is evidence of an amateur seamstress such as a younger girl or possibly an older woman whose hands are not as fit for steady work? I know that not every woman was capable of perfection but the workmanship on this artifact was very interesting to me.

Please share your thoughts and point me in any direction that may help me understand this more fully.

Thanks,
For Missouri and the Cause,
Matthew Shomaker

(Sorry about the timestamp on the photo but I couldn't figure out how to change the date, much less take it away! I'm much more comfortable w/19th century technology.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/97113375@N00/1986356629/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97113375@N00/1986354203/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97113375@N00/1986352033/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97113375@N00/1986350637/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97113375@N00/1987160330/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97113375@N00/1986347499/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97113375@N00/1987157396/

[ElizabethClark]

Re: Sloppy Seamstress?

Some of the things I note from the images:

The button on the bodice is a white with brown "decal calico" button, four hole. Calico buttons don't usually "match" the dress precisely. They do harmonize with the dress colors as a whole, picking up the subtle brown in the fabric.

What's interesting is that there is only one button/hole on the bodice... the rest of the bodice may close with hooks and eyes on the inside.

The button on the sleeve cuff is a deep brown four-hole china button.

My gut says these buttons are a make-do, repair, etc situation, rather than something done originally on the dress.

The buttonholes exhibit a distinct lack of care or skill... proving that not every woman of the era did a good job. :)

The entirely contrasting narrow band collar points me toward a potentially re-made dress, sometime between 1865 and about 1871 or so. At that point, necklines were in a transitional phase, and small standing collars came into style, though this is hardly a stylish dress. The contrasting fill in could be a remake to suit it for another wearer with a different neck size or preference.

The piecing of the neck band is not unusual in itself; piecing is often seen extensively, even on very well-made garments. The more care taken with the garment, the more care generally taken in matching the fabric design during piecing. While this is off, it's not horribly far off.

The front waistband could simply be from an alteration, or a repair at the front bodice, which gets a LOT of abrasion and wear during routine women's work. Since the back looks to have been very solid still, replacing or covering just the front waist would be a very practical, fast repair.

Overall, the dress hollers "Worked To Death"... the repairs and remakes show a varying lack of skill, illustrating that not every person was terribly interested in or able to do a beautiful sewing job.