Satin & Silk Lining

[Coon Dawg]

I see many of you active on the civilian part of the AC right now. Therefore, I thought I might ask for your help. I have a few events I will be attending this year where I will be wearing a Sack Coat. And I did a search beforehand on the web and the AC to no avail.

How common would it have been for a civilian sack coat to be lined with satin or silk instead of osnaburg or cotton? And before you say it I know it would depend on your status, etc. However, from your own personal research what have you seen to be more prevalent?

Joel Phillips
The Frog Holler Mess

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Satin & Silk Lining

A good quality wool (superfine, tweed, cashmere, etc.) Sack Coat you might purchase from a ready-made men's clothing warehouse, or one made by a tailor, circa 1850-1870 would commonly be lined with an Alpaca blended lining (alpaca was usually blended with cotton, silk, mohair, wool or combinations thereof), wool/silk blended lining, cotton/silk blended lining, a heavy silk twill, or a blended wool/silk satin or cotton/silk satin fabric. Pure silk linings have a tendency to wear out quickly, and since the lining of a coat is usually the first part to go, it makes sense they used so many silk blended materials for linings. Blending silk with cotton or wool will give the fabric increased flexibility, durability, and softness, yet retain the silky luster.

You'll have to do some "shopping around" to find a lining that suits your budget, yet remains comparable to an original lining.

Cotton osnaburg, muslin and other cheap cotton fabrics would only be used in the poorest quality coats, aka ghetto cheap crap. There are many original garments worn by humble working class "Joe's" off the job that are made from very nice materials, so don't buy into the Hollywood "Dickensian" version of the past that many reenactors peddle to justify poor quality reproductions. The reality of historic dress across class boundaries is a little less stark than many would like to believe.;)

[Coon Dawg]

Re: Satin & Silk Lining

This is a most excellent answer. Exactly what I was looking to find. Ian, I appreciate you time and am in awe of your knowledge of the subject.

Thanks again.

Joel Phillips