Cartridge pleating

[hiplainsyank]

My mom is getting ready to make a skirt and bodice set from one of the historically correct patterns available (Martha McCann?). She is an experienced sewer but is confused by the step to do cartridge pleating for the skirt. I couldn't find any hits with the search function, but couldn't find anything to help with her question: What is the difference between cartridge pleating, and basting and gathering the skirt, then sewing down the pleats? How, then, do you do cartridge pleating.

Thanks for any help you might have!

[Spinster]

Re: Cartridge pleating

Here's two different explanations of how to go about gauging a skirt.

From Glenna Jo Christensen

http://home.earthlink.net/~gchristen/Gauging.html

And Elizabeth Stewart Clark

http://elizabethstewartclark.com/GAMC/FP/PDF/Gauging.pdf

While you are at it, wander around Mrs. Clark's site, as its always a source of valuable knowledge of the sort of stuff that you don't realize that you have a gaping hole in your knowledge until you see the "ah-ha!" that fills that hole. Way down in that site is an article on the Simplicity pattern line, and some of the changes you'll need to make to convert that pattern from modern sewing instructions to a period correct item.

Now, period skirt gauging is pretty counter-intuitive to any modern seamstress. The 1860's method of making a skirt goes against the basic way that modern clothes are constructed. Just do it anyway--it makes bunches more sense when you are wearing it.

[SouthernMag]

Re: Cartridge pleating

Cartridge pleating (aka gauging) is very different from gathering. First, the Martha McCain patterns don't tell you that you need to "balance" the skirt. In the period, the skirt was hemmed before the top of it was dealt with because you adjust the length at the top, that is balance the skirt (have you ever seen a lady at an event who had a skirt that was longer in front than back--not balanced). Most people, no matter what size they are, need their skirt to be an inch or two longer in back to be an even distance from the ground all around at the bottom. You measure (with your period underpinnings, esp. your cage crinoline or other skirt support on) down center front, center back and at the sides and turn under the top edge of the skirt an appropriate amount to get it to fit these measures. For instance mine need to be 40" in front and 43" in back so I cut my skirt panels 45" long and turn under 5" in front tapering down to 2" in back. This means when you start cartridge pleating, you are dealing with a folded edge at the top, not a raw edge like you would for gathering. The cartridge pleating is simple, thread two hand needles with good strong thread. I like to divide the skirt into four sections which correlate with the center front, sides and center back on the bodice and deal with one section at a time. Then start a running stitch about 1/2" from the edge of the fold with the stiches being about 1/4" long and 1/4" apart. When you get to the end of the thread, take the other needle and drop down about an eight of an inch under the first stitches and repeat, making sure the second row of stitches lines up with the top row. When you have used up the thread on the second needle, hold both needles securely in your left hand and use your right hand to pull up the threads. This will form lots of small little pleats, ie. "cartridge pleats". Continue on, using the same two needles and the thread until you get to the end of the section then adjust the pleats to fit into the corresponding section on the bodice. When the two are lined up, tie off the two threads securely and you have your first section of cartridge pleats. I like to go ahead and attach the section to the bodice at this point before moving on to cartridge pleating the next section. To attach the tiny pleats to the bodice, whip stitch the front crease of each pleat to the bottom inside edge of the bodice right where the waistline piping meets the bodice or you can also whip stitch the pleats to a seperate waistband of grosgrain ribbon then attach the grosgrain band to the inside of the bodice, whichever you prefer. After a while, you get into a rhythm and although this sounds like it would take forever, it really goes quite fast. I can cartridge pleat a 180" circumference skirt and attach it to a waistband in about an hour, good to work on while watching TV.

Gathers are a rare treatment in period clothing, usually reserved for underpinnings. Even then, they are stroked gathers, that is done like cartridge pleating without turning under the top edge of the fabric then encased in the waistband (like petticoats). Also, be aware that by the time of the War, cartridge pleating was a bit passe, usually seen only on wash dresses or summer sheers and directional pleating, box pleats, triple box pleats, etc. were more often the techniques used on silks and woolens.

Hope this is clearer than mud :confused_.

Maggie Reese