Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

[GreencoatCross]

Re: Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

Ian is right on the money. The quality of the vast majority of reproduction jean is far too poor to have been considered a viable option for a middle class or upper class person of the time. Some of the most compelling examples of "nice" jeans and satinets from the time were examined by Dan Wambaugh, Terry Sorchy, and myself at the Wisconsin Veteran's Museum early last year.

Among the simply amazing items that the museum currently has in storage is a simple Federal canteen. This canteen is interesting in that it appears to be covered with a finely finished black broadcloth; upon closer inspection I noticed a very fine tan warp peeking through some worn areas. When I pulled the cloth back to see the reverse I noticed that the cloth was double woven (I believe this is the proper term). The cloth was thin and durable, with not a single ray of light passing through any part of the unworn areas, shiny, and neatest of all was the cotton "warp" (or whatever it was...."filling" maybe?) peeking out from between the layers of black wool. I'm not exactly sure what to call this type of cloth but it was clearly a wool/cotton blend fabric of very high quality. I can't help but believe THIS type of mixed cloth would have been used by upper class citizens.

That is an example of the highest grade of mixed cotton/wool cloth I've seen. On the other end of the spectrum are a pair of badly used jean trousers purportedly used by a Tennessee slave (these were on display at the "Liberty On The Border" display in Cincinnati some years ago). I remember the cloth of these trousers being similar to most currently available jeans. There are of course many more "grades" or "qualities" of jean, cassimere, and satinet that fall somewhere between these two examples I've given.

A final note; the majority of satinets, of varying grades, that I've seen in original garments appear to have been finished like a broadcloth or kersey. This seems to have been done with just a few exceptions. Has anyone bothered reproducing "finished" satinet (and I don't mean thrown in the washing machine, dryer, then ironed)?

[27thNCdrummer]

Re: Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

The militia unit being portrayed is the "Beaufort Harbor Guards". This unit was formed on April 13th, 1861 and consisted of 17 Carteret County, NC secessionists. The event is the seizure of Ft. Macon which occurred April 14th, 1861. The fort was seized by men the of the "Beaufort Harbor Guards", men of Beaufort and Morhead City and cadets of the A. M. Institute in Carolina City totaling 54 men. These men were assembled by local secessionist Josiah S Pender.

[Ian McWherter]

Among the simply amazing items that the museum currently has in storage is a simple Federal canteen. This canteen is interesting in that it appears to be covered with a finely finished black broadcloth; upon closer inspection I noticed a very fine tan warp peeking through some worn areas. When I pulled the cloth back to see the reverse I noticed that the cloth was double woven (I believe this is the proper term). The cloth was thin and durable, with not a single ray of light passing through any part of the unworn areas, shiny, and neatest of all was the cotton "warp" (or whatever it was...."filling" maybe?) peeking out from between the layers of black wool. I'm not exactly sure what to call this type of cloth but it was clearly a wool/cotton blend fabric of very high quality. I can't help but believe THIS type of mixed cloth would have been used by upper class citizens.

That's exactly what I'm talking about. Great original item, good job guys, and to think that "fine" cloth was used as a canteen cover.:)

I think many members of the authentic living history community forget that satinetts were supposed to imitate the look fine fine wool broadcloth. Original examples of satinette often appear exactly like broadcloth even with the same high gloss finish and non-fraying edges.

The following is from The Gold Rush Diary of Ramon Gil Navarro pg.239. He made this list before departing Stockton for Sonora.

Tuesday, 1 June 1852
My Closet and all of its old clothes:

1 burgundy cape
1 blue tail coat
1 black tail coat
1 cashmere frock coat
1 sky-blue long summer frock coat
1 suede summer frock coat with mother-of-pearl buttons
2 pair of black satin woolen trousers
1 pair of sky-blue satin woolen trousers for summer
1 pair of violet satin woolen trousers
2 pair of olive-green satin woolen trousers
1 pair of gray satin woolen trousers with white stripes
1 pair of green French cashmere trousers
1 pair of trousers with a stain of her blood on them!
1 satin black vest
1 white velvet vest with sky-blue trim
1 suede-colored vest with sky-blue trim
1 gray cashmere vest with dark green trim
4 white pique' vests
1 purple silk vest with sea-green flowers
1 beige winter overcoat trimmed with cloth of the same color. A gift of my friend A. Enyart from New York
3 dozen white shirts
3 silk shirts
1 dozen sets of drill underware
1 dozen sheets
18 towles or washcloths

It should be noted that Ramon Gil Navarro was by no means a poor man, quite the contrary. He was descended from a well known Argentinean family of great lineage, and was a political outcast from Argentina living with his family in Chile. He came to California in 1849. To describe his clothes in such detail shows what a fashionable man he must have been (25 years old) and to wear trousers of satin woolen should only tell us that the beauty of the cloth must have been exceptional.

From "Men's Fashionable and Everyday Trousers and Fabrics- 1848-1870," by Saundra Altman, notes from a workshop she gave years ago in Columbia, CA:

This ad appears in the May 1854 issue of the Detroit Free Press, Detroit Michigan by Eagle & Elliott:

Importers & Jobbers Of Goods For Men's Wear Exclusively.

Are Now Opening The Richest Stock of Cloth Goods, adapted to city or country trade, ever offered in this city, comprising the entire line of late importations, and the most carefully selected styles of domestic manufactures, which the eastern markets afford.-We are prepared to offer fresh and desirable goods at low prices, viz:
French, English, Scotch and American Fancy Cassimeres, of approved patterns, at reduced prices from last year; Drap D'Etes, Crotons, Nankinettes and Cashmeres; brown, Buff and Slate Lines, in quantity; White and Fancy colors; Linen Drills, Ducks of pure Linen, in colors and white; entirely new patterns...
The celebrated brand of "Biolley & Fils" French Cloths, embracing the entire line of this well tried cloth, in black and colors, and Doeskins and Cassimeres of single and double milled, 100 pieces of these goods.
All Wool and Cotton Warp American Cloths.
Black and assorted colors of Italian Cloth or
Farmers Satin.
A large assortment of Satins and Grenadines. Rich, White, Watered and
Fancy Slik Vestings. BON JEAN SEDAN JOHANEY and Bauendahl's makers of Cloths, Doeskins and Cashmeres.
Printed and Fancy Satinets at Reduced prices.
Summer stuffs.
Ripka's Cords and Denims.
Fancy styles of Mottled and Fancy Jeans.
The real Simon pure, old fashioned Kentucky Jeans, in various grades, warrented half wool.
Staple styles and makers of Satinets, at reduced prices.
Silesias imported and domestic.
Silk Serges, 20 pieces, black and colored.
Buff and White Jackonet, Sleeve Linings.
Mohair Serges,
Lustres and every variety of lining Stuff Goods, required for this peculiar trade.
Tweeds of veritable Wool, and Union.
Tweeds of approved mixtures and colors.
Paddings and Canvas, five hundred pieces.
Pure Italian Sewings and Twist.
Buttons.
Cords.
Binding.
Buckles.
Marshall's Threads.
Stay Cotton.
Holland Black and White Wigans and Vest Paddings.
Heavy Linen Drills or Farmer's Drill.
Velveteens.
Corduroys and Tabby Velvets.
Silk Velvets and Silk Sleeve Linings.
Bleached and Brown Drills and Linings Muslims.
Cottonades, at reduced prices.
Plaid Cloakings.
Twilled Flannels and Hickory Stripes.

The above, with a large assortment of goods usually in demand be Merchants' Tailors, may always be found in our Cloth Ware Rooms, in quantity.

For anyone who thinks goods were rare and hard to come by in Gold Rush California just take a look at this add placed in The Mountain Democrat in 1856:

Clothing Warehouse

WM G. Badger,
No. 109 Battery Street,
Corner of Merchant, San Francisco,

Importer of every variety of Clothing and Furinising Goods. Also, of Blankets, Duck, Drills, Sheetings, Hats, Caps, Boots, and Brogans.
By Recent Arrivals has received very large invoices of the most

Desirable Styles of Clothing,
and the LARGEST STOCK ever offered in this market. the Goods are manufactured under my own supervision; are of the best material, well cut, large sizes, and made in the most durable manner.
Traders from the Country are invited to examine this Heavy Stock, and they will find the prices LOWER than they can be found elsewhere in this market.
Purchasers may rely on receiving the best and most saleable Goods, as each article is guaranteed.
Orders from the country promptly and carefully attended to.

10,000 pairs assorted fancy cassimere pants;
10,000 pairs fancy and plain satinet pants;
7,000 prs linen pants;
2,000 prs Goodyear’s rubber pants;
1,000 Goodyear’s Rubber Coats;
200 cases Goodyear’s long and short rubber boots;
200 cases miner’s boots;
1,000 dozen super flannel overshirts;
200 dozen fancy cassimere overshirts;
1,000 dozen white shirts;
650 dozen heavy hickory shirts;
300 dozen regatta undershirts;
200 dozen grey flannel undershirts;
450 dozen lamb’s-wool drawers;
250 dozen bleached drill drawers;
1,500 overalls;
300 dozen denim frocks;
1,200 dozen country knit wool socks;
1,500 doz heavy white and mixed cotton socks;
1,000 pieces super silk pocket handkerchiefs;
100 dozen super black silk pocket handkerchiefs;
200 dozen cambrie handkerchiefs;
300 dozen rubber belts;
250 dozen buckskin gloves;
400 dozen buckskin gold bags;
1,000 doeskin business coats;
400 dozen black cloth frock coats;
2,000 assorted overcoats;
500 assorted pea coats;
3,000 silk, cloth and velvet vests;
20 bales blue and white blankets;
50 bales A sheetings;
30 bales assorted duck;
50 cases fine felt hats;
100 cases straw hats.

For sale by
WM G. Badger,
Wholesale Clothing Warehouse,
109 Battery St., corner Merchant, San Francisco.

[Jefferson Guards]

Re: Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

2 pair of black satin woolen trousers
1 pair of sky-blue satin woolen trousers for summer
1 pair of violet satin woolen trousers
2 pair of olive-green satin woolen trousers
1 pair of gray satin woolen trousers with white stripes

I have numerous references to the use of satinette for clothing,. However, I wonder, given the detail of the other entries, if he is referencing an all wool "wool satin" rather than a wool/cotton satinette?

[Ian McWherter]

Re: Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

I have numerous references to the use of satinette for clothing,. However, I wonder, given the detail of the other entries, if he is referencing an all wool "wool satin" rather than a wool/cotton satinette?

He could be, its hard to say. Satin weave fabrics are easiest to work with when "hard backed" with a fiber like cotton or silk that in no way diminishes the overall quality, in fact it improves it and makes the cloth more durable.

[Jefferson Guards]

Re: Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

I think many members of the authentic living history community forget that satinetts were supposed to imitate the look fine fine wool broadcloth. Original examples of satinette often appear exactly like broadcloth even with the same high gloss finish and non-fraying edges. [/I]

I agree. Here is an image of the satinette used to construct General Pettigrew’s frock coat. It is finely woven; however it is not the finest satinette I have seen. In my opinion it might have been considered average quality. I have viewed one satinette example that was so finely woven that it was indistinguishable from broadcloth, except in the area's where the moth's had their dinner and exposed the cotton fibers. It was exquisite!

[georgerutherford1861]

Re: Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

Excellent discussion!

If this message is considered a tangent on the subject, please ignore. Otherwise, here is my question: where does one find such high-quality, tightly woven, well-finished as to appear as broadcloth, satinette and the like? Am I just looking in the wrong places or using the wrong search terms? Or, is this yet another in the list of hard to find/unable to find fabrics that were common during the era but that are agonizingly lacking today?

Doug Frank
...who is still struggling to find time to finish a sack coat, and who should not even be considering buying more fabric at this time

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

To reinforce Ian's comment, the majority of the fabrics available during the period were much higher quality than most of the fabrics available today. It is only by looking at original garments that we can truly appreciate these fabrics and the technology that produced them.

The good news, Doug, is that similar fabrics are indeed still available. The not-so-good news is that they're not easily found. These are not mass-market fabrics, so they're not available from mass-market retailers. Brian and I have found many of the suppliers in the New York City garment/fabric district. I believe Ian has found many of his in similar districts on the west coast. You can find similar fabric districts in most major cities.

A significant number of these suppliers do not have an on-line presence. Their stock changes too frequently to make that a viable option. Instead, you need to visit the shops, squeeze through the aisles (literally), dig through bolts and bolts of fabrics and, if you're lucky, you'll find what you're looking for. Having a swatch or detailed photograph of the fabric is very helpful; many of the staff speak English as a second language and are not familiar with mid-19th century terminology. However, if they have it in stock, they'll find it for you. :)

Finally - cost may be an issue. Fine quality fabrics are expensive to produce, and they will be priced accordingly. Fortunately I've found enough 'bargains' over the years to offset the costlier goods I couldn't live without.

I incorporate fabric shopping on every trip I take. Sometimes you can find great fabrics in very off-the-wall locations. If visiting a major fabric district is not an option, spend some time at the library with telephone directories to find potential sources, then follow up via mail or telephone. Many of this sources will send swatches. Happy hunting!

Regards,

[Jennifer T Wisener]

Re: Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

"State Troops And Volunteers, A Photographic Record of North Carolina's Civil War Soldiers" by Greg Mast, might be of help.

Photo 2.73 is of First Sergeant Edward Jones Brooks of the "Beauguard Rifles" an he is wearing a civilian suit.